Dining in Siena

There are quite a number of places to find a reasonably priced, delicious meal in Siena. If you have several nights in the city, spend one of them eating on the Piazza del Campo. I know you’ve read that the the food is generally mediocre in a place that caters mainly to herds -- and I mean herds, just count the tables -- and also that the service lacks, shall we say charm.

So why eat there? Location, location, location. It's the best place in town to watch people, and to savor just sitting on the Campo on a nice warm evening, drinking wine (and do splurge here on really good wine). The trick? Eat a hearty afternoon meal at one of the places below and then just dine lightly on a simple pasta or insalata or just antipasti with wine on the Campo.

Now that we have that out of the way, for seriously good food, check out the following places to eat a great meal:

Ristorante Nello La Taverna - After running into the owner-chef at one of the nearby internet shops we returned to "Nello" for dinner and had a marvelous meal. The food is exceptionally well-prepared and a nice blend of local Tuscan and Senese cuisine with an experimental flair. The prices were very reasonable as well. Wine list is modest but to the point and like the menu reflects good value. 28 Via del Porrione, ph. 0577 289043. (1998, 1999, October, 2005)

Antica Osteria da Divo - We had dinner with our friend Roberto Bechi from Serre di Rapolano, at Antica Osteria Da Divo (Via Franceso 29), a wonderful ristoranti which we discovered back in December of 1999 and which, as it turns out is Roberto’s favorite place to eat as well. The atmosphere is unique to say the least, and the service friendly, fast and courteous. The food was wonderful and the chef, “Pino”, was eager to show his creative talents. This is also a very nice spot for an afternoon meal as well and is located in one of the more quiet areas yet still very close to the Duomo and Piazza del Campo. 29 Via Franciosa, ph. 0577 284-381, open daily. (1999, February & March, 2005)

Boccon del Prete - This is a great place for early afternoon meal. The service is friendly, the food creative and delicious and like the house wines reasonably priced as well. In fact the food was so good that we returned on 10 March. We also ate our final meal in Siena here as well as several lunches. Not to be missed! They also open for the evening meal beginning at 7:30 pm. 17 Via S. Pietro, ph & fax 0577 280388, closed on Sunday. (February & March, 2005, October, 2005)

Ristorante Enzo - Outstanding service matched only by their exquisite food. Try one of the degustazione menus: for traditional Tuscan cuisine go with the "Tradizione" or with the "Tavola di Toscana". Prices for a five course meal range from 25-35 euros, wine not included. Their wine list is very good, in fact quite extensive and their pricing is extremely reasonable (except for their brunellos). 49 Via Camollia, ph. 0577 281277. (March, 2005)

Osteria delle Logge - Another favorite spot, just across from Nello Taverna, with indoor and outdoor seating, and occasionally family style seating as well so you could be eating dinner with just about anybody. We had eaten at delle Logge twice before, in 1998 and again in 1999 and not only has the food gotten better but the service was in a word, superb. All the dishes were very creative and well prepared. If your coming in high season it is recommended that you book in advance. Since this was a more quiet time of year we were seated without a reservation but by the time we left the restaurant had pretty much filled up with locals. And if you're just walking by stop and watch them cook from the street!

Under the direction of chef Nico Atrigna, Osteria delle Logge has developed quite a creative colunary team. In fact he was one of featured chefs in the Italian special holiday edition of Gambero Rosso in December of 2005. 33 Via del Porrione, ph. 0577 48013. (1999, 2005)

Il Capriccio - A ristorante operated by and located in the Hotel Palazzo Ravizza, this was suggested to us by Lisa who runs the nearby bookshop in the Galleria on Via San Pietro; she knew of this place because her husband's family owns the hotel. Aside from her obvious prejudice Lisa steered us well. The service, food and atmosphere were superb and worth a stop. After dinner the four of us (Sue and I were joined by another student in our shcool and her husband) strolled about the garden of the hotel, which had a wonderful eastern view from what seemed to be the top of the city walls; quite spectacular, even at night. 32 Pian dei Mantellini, ph. 0577 281757 (email: capriccio@palazzoravizza.com)

Il Cavaliere Errante - For pizza and basic pasta dishes this place cannot be beat. A favorite with the locals they also serve a great antipasto buffet for pranzo (lunchtime). Delicious house wines (try the bianco frizzante) served mainly by the 1/4, 1/2 or full liter. Located in the Piazza Provenzano, ph. 0577 222496. (November, 2005)

Cane e Gatto - This is a ristorante in Siena recommended by Heather of Pennsylvania. Click here for her review. Thanks Heather! Cane e Gatto is located at 6 Via Pagliaresi, ph. 0577 287545. Open for dinner only. Closed Thursday.

Campagnia dei Vinatierri Was recommended to me in an email from Susan M. Check out their website!


Other places to eat in Siena you might want to check out, although as you can see by the review date it has been some years since we have visited these establishments:

Osteria Il Tamburino. 11 Via Stalloreggi, ph. 0577 280306, closed Sun. Very simple but good Tuscan home cooking. Another small, family-run operation. Good prices too. (1999)

Al Marsili. 3 Via del Castoro, ph. 0577 47154, all credit cards, open Tues-Sun. (1994, 1999)

Shang Hai - on Via della Galuzza, the food was superb, and great prices. (1999)

Ristorante Il Biondo - Via del Rustichetto, ph. 0577 280739. Around the corner from Piazza Matteotti. (1999)

Osteria da Cice - 32 Via San Pietro. Small, family run osteria, lots of atmosphere with great food and wine. (1999)

Trattoria Papei. 6 Piazza del Mercato, ph. 0577 280894. Another great family run place, just behind the Torre di Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico. Outside tables, great prices and good food! (1998)


If you have any place in Siena you thought was worth letting others know about just drop me a note!

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